Raw hair looks beautiful in its natural state but colouring it the right way is key. This guide breaks down how to safely tone or dye your raw extensions — whether you’re a pro or just learning.
1. Is Your Bundle Colour-Ready?
Start by identifying your bundle type: natural dark or pre-lifted #613.
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Natural dark raw hair requires lifting before applying any custom shade. These bundles contain intact cuticles, so lifting must be done slowly to avoid damage.
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#613 blonde raw hair has already been lightened and is ready for toning or vivid colour. Still, gentle care is essential to maintain integrity.
Before you bleach raw hair safely, confirm it's 100% raw, with no prior chemical processing or silicone coating. Processed hair won’t respond consistently to colour and can break down quickly.
2. Developer Strength & Bond Builders: Science-Backed Guidelines
When colouring raw hair extensions, it's important to use the lowest effective developer strength to protect the hair’s natural cuticle. A 10-volume developer (3% hydrogen peroxide) is typically enough for depositing color or making small tonal changes. For lifting hair by 1-2 levels, you can use a 20-volume developer (6%), but only if the hair is healthy and you're monitoring it closely.
Avoid using 30 or 40-volume developer on raw extensions unless absolutely necessary — like lifting several levels from dark hair — and only with professional supervision. High-volume developers significantly increase the pH of the mixture, which forces the cuticle open and can damage the internal protein structure of the hair, especially in extensions that no longer receive nutrients from the scalp.
To minimize this risk, always pair lighteners with a bond-building treatment. These products help maintain the integrity of disulfide bonds, which are critical for keeping the hair strong and elastic during the chemical process. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully — overuse or incorrect mixing can affect both the results and the condition of the hair.
3. Step-by-Step Toning for Natural Dark Bundles
After lifting natural dark raw hair, toning is essential to cancel out unwanted brass and create your desired shade.
Here’s how to do it:
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Choose the Right Toner:
Use a no-lift, ammonia-free demi-permanent toner or gloss. Look for ash, neutral, or pearl tones to cancel out warm undertones like orange or red. -
Apply to Damp Hair:
Toning works best on clean, towel-dried hair (about 70% dry). Damp hair helps the toner spread evenly. -
Mix & Apply:
Mix your toner with a dedicated low-volume developer (5-10 vol), according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Apply evenly, working in small sections to ensure full saturation. -
Processing Time:
Let it process for 5 to 20 minutes, depending on how porous the hair is and how much brass needs to be removed. Check every 3-5 minutes to avoid over-toning. -
Rinse, Then Deep Condition:
Rinse thoroughly with cool water. Then use a protein-free deep conditioner or mask to restore moisture and smoothness without interfering with the toner.
4. Going Pastel or Vivid on #613
Want lavender, peach, or vivid copper? #613 bundles are your perfect blank canvas — light enough to take on any pigment with clarity and precision.
Here’s how to colour them correctly:
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Start Clean & Dry:
Begin with freshly washed, product-free hair that’s fully dry. This ensures maximum pigment absorption and even results. -
Apply Generously:
Use a semi-permanent or direct dye — and apply it section by section. Full saturation is non-negotiable: every strand needs to be coated from root to tip. -
Let It Process:
Follow the brand's recommended timing (typically 20–40 minutes). Don't rush — these dyes stain the outer layer of the hair, so time ensures intensity and longevity. -
Rinse With Cool Water Only:
Just rinse until the water runs clear. Cool water helps close the cuticle and lock in colour.
5. Post-Colour pH & Protein Care
Colouring shifts the pH and weakens structure. Here's how to reset:
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Use a pH-balancing conditioner to seal the cuticle.
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Follow up with a protein-rich mask to reinforce strands.
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Limit washing and heat to maintain colour on extensions longer.
This step is essential for any person who wants to protect their investment.
6. Troubleshooting Brassiness & Porosity
Brassy tones are often a sign of underlying warm pigments showing through — typically when hair hasn’t been lifted light enough, or when toner fades unevenly.
To correct it, use a toner with the correct underlying pigment (e.g., violet to cancel yellow, blue to neutralize orange).
Porosity, how easily hair absorbs and retains moisture, plays a major role in colour performance.
High-porosity hair (often due to bleaching) grabs pigment fast but fades quickly.
To manage this:
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Always balance pH after lightening with a post-color treatment or acidic rinse.
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Use bond builders or protein-reinforcing masks to strengthen the cuticle and reduce uneven absorption.
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If colour grabs too dark or dull in some spots, it's likely due to overly porous areas, so pre-fill or condition those zones before toning.
By understanding the science behind tone and porosity, you get more predictable, even results and longer-lasting colour.
Final Thoughts
Colouring raw hair is about balance between artistry and science. Whether you're toning #613 blonde or lightening natural bundles, this blueprint is your foundation for doing it right.